Shine On! 'Shining Rainbow' Restaurant a mecca for unusual dishes

Beef with Balsam pear. Squid fried celery. Spinach with garlic sauce. Not your typical Chinese fare, right? But maybe that’s not so surprising when you discover the name of the restaurant is Shining Rainbow. Then, dishes like spare ribs with bitter melon don’t seem so out of place.

This new Chinese-Japanese restaurant on Central Avenue has a menu that seems to encompass every possibility—even though the kitchen is about the size of a lunch counter. The restaurant has Chinese dishes, sushi, and a fairly large dim sum selection, which makes for some difficult dining decisions.

The waiter recommends their mushroom with chicken hot pot, “a real Chinatown specialty,” he said. My companion has chicken lo mein, as per his usual (he is becoming a connoisseur of lo mein.) We also order some dim sum to begin our meal, green leek dumplings, stuffed bean curd, and steamed pork dumplings. These appetizers were prettily presented, flavorful, and large enough to be a meal in and of themselves. I would highly recommend this place for dim sum; they seem to have a lot of show in them. The main dishes were less artisitic, but still good. The lo mein was smoky, with tender pieces of chicken and slivers of scallion and carrot mixed in with the thick noodles. My hot pot was a new experience for me to handle, the chicken was still on the bone and clearly seemed to be more for flavoring than eating, however combined with the tasty mushrooms and the unique sauce, it mixed well with the sticky rice and made for good, cozy eating. Our bill, with two sodas, came to about $30.

Next time, I’m going to order from the sushi menu, which is the same sushi as that served in the very popular Shogun Sushi in Delmar (the restaurants share partners). While we waited for our food, several sushi rolls came out that looked wonderful, including one elaborate roll that was wrapped around an orange.

Shining Rainbow has great lunch specials, with plenty of seating for diners-on-the-go at their lunch counter. There are also a number of deep, gondola-like booths ranged around the restaurant for longer, more involved meals. This three-week old restaurant is just getting on its feet and eager to please, and the staff is friendly and knowledgeable. Come looking for something out of the ordinary.

Shining Rainbow is located at 209 Central Avenue. They are open every day, and also offer delivery. 396-3881.